GARMENT SELECTION & PRODUCT TESTING
The Motion Trousers were selected during the physical prototyping stage of the project to determine if the hypothetical value of the trousers' features would translate to real-world functionality. Specifically, the knee darts and neoprene ankle panels were tested to rule out any materials interactions issues and/or fit concerns. An adjustable back rise was also integrated into the prototype, providing versatility for users who regularly transition between a sitting and standing position. Materials wise, a 100% cotton double-cloth fabric with Natural Stretch technology was utilized throughout the body of the final prototype to assist with range of motion. The overall process extended over three phases where additional features were introduced into each sample.
To begin the process, commercial patterns of a standard pair of women's pleated trousers were constructed and fit tested on an Alvanon US ASTM Missy Straight size 6 dress form. During the fit session, pattern modifications were made to the rise, hips, and thighs of the garment to relieve drag lines and remedy tension issues. Additional modifications were added to incorporate the trousers' wrap front design and the initial adjustable yoke was drafted as well.
Phase two focused on perfecting the fit of the pants by increasing the depth of the rise and recentering the side seam. The adjustable yoke was also altered to smooth the curve of the apex, allowing the invisible zipper to open and close more fluidly.
The final fabric was utilized in the construction of the third sample to determine if the fit issues that were present on the second sample were being caused by the rigidity of the material. A seamless version of the adjustable yoke was also tested during this phase but it compromised the aesthetics of the garment and was reverted back into two pieces for the final prototype.
In the final phase, the neoprene ankle panels and knee darts were added to the prototype. Foldover elastic was used to bind the edge of the ankle panels, allowing the neoprene fabric to stretch without restriction.
Through the prototyping process, multiple features of The Motion Trousers were deemed to be successful. The knee darts have the potential to add the most value, but there is a balance that needs to be maintained between the amount of fabric removed and the tightness of the trousers' around the knee area. For the neoprene ankle panels, the fabric was able to stretch to it's fullest potential when a 1/2" lightweight fold over elastic binding was used. A hemmed version of the panels was also tested but it restricted the stretch of the fabric and added unsightly bulk. The adjustable yoke satisfied it's intended purpose, but the height of it would need to be increased to expand at the accurate position on t a seated form.